A taste of Italy at its local best, Il Sogno op- erates outside of the red-checked-tablecloth school of Italian restaurants, both in cuisine and in its professional service. Chef Andrew Weissman’s touch with seafood is extraordinarily sure; witness the squid ink spaghetti with shrimp and cherry tomatoes and the delicate risotto with shrimp and scallops. Not that he doesn’t do meat well; try the porchetta with pork loin. And don’t pass up the cold appetizers, like the wonderful cannellini beans, smoked salmon, and eggplant caviar. Beer & wine.