Merry and sometimes even boisterous, Azuca offers the cuisines of the Caribbean and parts of South America, together with exotic drinks and exuberant decor. And the chef knows his seafood. Salmon jíbaro (with a crisp crust of plantain strips) broke new ground for us, as did the accompanying “corn mashers with clam cream” (better than it sounds). Anything with shrimp, from the coconut shrimp appetizer to the Camerón Pelao (sauteéd with garlic and tequila), is a good bet. Informal yet arty and imaginative, Azuca is one of Southtown’s longtime favorites. (9/13)