A throwback to when eating out was a big deal, this refined space is comfortable but not stuffy, and the seafood is exquisite. A wild mushroom salad with endive, arugula, and warm goat cheese set the bar high, and a chef’s choice sashimi tasting kept pace. Herb-crusted trout, pan-sautéed with sage beurre blanc and served with creamy herbed polenta, was richly satisfying, while roasted sea bass in lemon wine broth with garlic and scallions was simply lovely. Bar.