Shutters separate the inviting patio from the spacious interior of Randy Evans’s upper Kirby restaurant, lending just the right ambience for his locally sourced cuisine. We ate too many yeasty white rolls but still dipped eagerly into lush vegan zuc- chini soup (sans cream) and arugula salad with strawberries and pecans. An entrée of grouper and crawfish, French gnocchi, fennel, and leeks upheld the kitchen’s reputation, but free-range chicken, prepared sous vide, lacked flavor and visual appeal. The designer cocktails are worth a try.