If he’s not too busy, proprietor Gianfranco Mastrangelo will stop by to check on your table, giving this new downtown ristorante a nice personal touch. Time-tested standards are handled with care, some tran-scending the norm (meaty lamb chops with garlic and rosemary), some missing the mark (an overcooked whole bass). Moderately fluffy gnocchi had a light, fresh tomato sauce, but the best dish of the evening was dessert: a superior tiramisu, not too sweet, braced with espresso. Bravo for it, and for cheery marigold-yellow walls and dark wood accents. Wine.