Nowhere in Austin is Mexican food more real and less adapted for American tastes that at this sleek, contemporary remodel of an old house. Iliana de la Vega created the recipes, most from her native Oaxaca, where she and husband Ernesto ran their first El Naranjo. Black mussels, cooked in white wine and orange juice, are a fine light prelude to the weekly changing mole (ours was ancho- and pasilla-based, boostered with raisins and a hint of chocolate; beautifully smooth in texture, it was less robust than moles we’re used to—by the way, the moist duck is an excellent choice of protein). Pescado tikin xik was a nicely cooked Chilean sea bass in an emphatic red sauce of tomatoes, onion, cilantro, lime juice, and olive oil; oversalting by a new cook brought profuse apologies and comped desserts. Speaking of sweets, of the three we tried, we favored the flourless chocolate cake with chocolate ganache. The wood-walled dining rooms are quite “live”; here’s hoping noise abatement is on the menu soon.