Chef Andre Natera has seamlessly assumed the helm at this luxe Highland Park spot. Beautiful to look upon and wonderful to consume was a multitude of dishes: smoked beets combined with dainty sprigs of blood sorrel, slices of avocado, bits of mango, and goat cheese; jumbo shrimp atop mascarpone polenta, smoked tomatoes, and mushrooms; and buttermilk panna cotta iced with maple gelée and festooned with blueberry compote. (7/13)