A revisit to this popular River Oaks hangout reminded us of its pleasures. The interior, though featuring lots of white and mirrors and chandeliers around a sometimes raucous bar, still manages to be casual, and service is knowledgeable and prompt. We started with oysters from BC and PEI, lovely, briny little creatures served with mignonette and red sauces, and a crock of corn-and-potato chowder that one of us loved and the other thought a bit gloppy. No argument, though, about the crusty slab of perfectly cooked salmon resting on a bed of vegetable-studded lentils or the roasted young hen, nicely browned and served with greens and tomatoes. Bar.