Maria Muldaur may have warbled about “Midnight at the Oasis,” but we doubt she ever envisioned this all-hours haunt that’s just as welcoming for families as it is for the ravenous after-party crowd. Tarted up with beer-den neon and faded homages to querido México, it’s chill and chow down at the same time, all the time. The menu is heavy on buckle-busters like crisp-crusted chicken-fried steak, with smashed potatoes and Texas toast (because two carbs are better than one, naturally). We recommend wearing sweatpants with room to grow. Conversations are best texted as the evening revs up. (7/12)