Genial chef-owner René Peeters has an eclectic approach to global tastes, and this cozy atmosphere is a good place to enjoy them. He certainly has proved that he’s a master of sauces; we particularly liked his appetizer of charred asparagus, prosciutto, and Parmesan with chardonnay sauce. Olive oil–poached lobster with spinach ravioli, accented by tarragon and espelette peppers, was as luxe as could be. For dessert, we kept it light with a napoleon of flaky pastry filled with fruit. (7/12)