Something about the turquoise, rose, and white color scheme and the way sunlight floods the small rooms is so charming that we can hardly stay away from this contemporary Vietnamese cafe. Breakfast is a good time to go, for brioche à sucre and homemade kumquat marmalade or for eggs, crisp vermicelli cakes, and pungent ginger sausage. Pho is served all day; we like the pork belly and meatballs with a soft-boiled egg, augmented, of course, with a heap of fresh bean sprouts, Thai basil, and cilantro. We could wolf down two servings of the buttery escargots seasoned with yellow curry paste, a reminder that Vietnam was once a French colony (the crusty baguette that comes with them is also great, mais oui). (6/12)