Four years ago this former gas station transformed itself into a breakfast eatery, selling egg tacos, homemade cinnamon rolls, and good coffee. Then it started offering lunch: staggering burgers, zesty pimento cheese, amazing fish tacos. So it should be no surprise that the little cafe that could has expanded into dinner service. The salmon cakes and calamari are notable, but be sure to try the beef skewers served with a chimichurri that’s bread-dipping delish. While the succulent steaks are a bargain, don’t miss out on the grilled salmon, ample, perfectly rare, and glazed with honey and orange; or the marinated pork, fork-tender and buttery. Vegetables are prepared with respect, like red potatoes with a gentle hint of rosemary and perhaps the best sautéed spinach ever. The succinct menu even includes a generous CFS and an assortment of Tex-Mex faves served with homemade tortillas. (5/12)