Executive chef Karey B. Johnson has energetically promoted this quirky jewel-in-a-boathouse with a cookbook (available on Amazon), a weekly column in the Caller-Times, and a menu that emphasizes local seafood, of course, and undergoes continual refinement. Poached grouper over a bed of asparagus and broccoli was outstanding, and the Rockport stew—Johnson’s locavore version of a bouillabaisse—is always worthy of consideration. A starter of fried calamari disappeared faster than the wine. (8/13)