We halfway expected Willie to come ambling through the door of this counter-order space shared with the Foundry, the bar next door. Moist chicken tamales were wonderfully zesty, but the red sauce paired with them almost took the top of our head off. Here, chicken comes either fried or cooked rotisserie-style over pecan wood; we took the latter and gnawed half a bird down to its bare bones. Sweet-and-salty fries were russets dusted with sugar and salt—and very addictive. A cantaloupe popsicle made for a fresh take on dessert. (6/12)