We like the relaxed, cheerful Italian American–styled space with wall stencils of a pouting So- phia Loren and a wide-eyed Audrey Hepburn on a Vespa (from Roman Holiday). Housed in the former La Sombra, also an Eddie Bernal endeavor, Gusto is more casual and family-friendly but still sophisticated enough for date night. Fresh papardelle, golden with egg yolk, was house-made and delicious; perhaps the accompanying bolognese could have used a little more zest, but we polished off the bowl. Eggplant with rigatoni in an arrabiata sauce wasn’t tangy enough for our taste either, but by then we were happily full of bacon-and-artichoke pizza. A very useful place for the Rosedale hood. (7/12)