“Venerable” comes to mind, but that’s too stuffy a word for this 1940’s dance hall/cafe, with its big iron-on-wheels smoker out front. And the cue (by the plate or the pound) gets our toes tapping, even with no band on the stage. Tender shreds of pulled pork and just-fatty-enough brisket are our top picks, and there’s a decent chicken-fried steak (or chicken) and a juicy griddled burger if you’d rather. Sides are standard: vinegary slaw, mustardy potato salad, and, our favorite, fried okra. While you wait, just count the old boots that embellish the rafters—this, friends, is the original stuff-on-the-ceiling venue that all the others copied. (10/12)