Like its Texas City cousin, this popular, no-frills spot boasts a menu that reaches beyond standard Tex-Mex; the kitchen has a fine hand with everything from beef tacos to hard-to-find calabaza con pollo (heartwarming squash and chicken stew). The enchiladas suizas won kudos for toothsome chicken and delectable tomatillo sauce. Diners in the back room are treated to a taste of spicy Island history; the rounded ceiling marks the spot as a former casino. (11/12)