Colorful paintings establish a festive atmosphere while the corner bakery hints at desserts to come (or go). The menu is strategically limited to all the favorites, like street-style enchiladas fat with cotija cheese and bathed in mole. The lowly hot dog is reinvented with a bacon robe, then accessorized with layers of beans, onions, salsa, and liberal splashes of mustard and ketchup. Breakfast is equally hearty, but head for butter-grilled bolillos (rolls, hence the name) stacked with beans and cheese, eggs and sausage, or potatoes sassy with peppers. (8/13)