It’s the first day of the month, the phone begins to ring at 9:00, and by 9:15 all reservations are gone for the next four weeks—enough said. Think ethereal arancini filled with a dab of nduja (a soft bit of pork sausage) and accented with a pale-green scallion aioli, creamy farro verde with salty pancetta and fresh fava beans, and bombolone filled with a red-wine-and-dried-cherry reduction and served up with cherries and hazelnuts. The cozy-rustic farmhouse setting encourages conversation. (8/13)