After yet another sampling of West Texas fine dining at the Gage, Marathon’s tent pole enterprise, we found nothing to quibble about. A shrimp and crab cocktail appeared with big lumps of the real thing perched atop a red sauce chock-full of sliced shrimp, avocado, and tomato. Then the salmon arrived, pink filets dressed in herbs and red pepper curls with roasted asparagus spears atop a crusty risotto. Underneath, a pale puddle of beurre blanc. Even the flan, with its swirling caramel sauce, was simple and perfect. Tourists were taking photos of the cow-skull sconces, clearly amused. (7/13)