It’s hard to imagine a better antidote to Austin’s apocalyptic heat than this crisp, clean purveyor of all things coastal, with its cold white tile, blue-hued fish tank, and mounds of oyster-studded ice. A brunch visit was a reminder to stick to what the kitchen does best: from a menu that’s more lunch than brunch anyway came banana-and-blueberry pancakes that were a touch dense and a perfectly average “grilled cheese egg in the hole.” Neither could stand up to the fat crab cake or the mussels and clams in a gloriously winey broth or, best of all, the wonderfully harmonious cioppino, a big bowl of tomatoey broth that boasted a poached egg, a petite mound of buttery grits, all manner of seafood, and, perched on the side, a slab of grilled bread smeared with roasted garlic. (9/13)