Crossing the I-35 divide, Paul Qui’s ESK empire has made it into an actual brick-and-mortar. Enter via the back alley to avoid the deafening band onstage or bouncers looking to card you several times. Decor includes pinball games and what might have been Pizza Hut booths in a previous life, with enough lighting for the older folks. The full kitchen means you can try the ramen with slabs of pork and a soft-cooked egg, but we’re devoted to classics like the roasted brussels sprouts salad and the crispy chicken karaage topped with lots of mint and basil. The rice was cold and the service slacker style, but the food is king.(2/13)