Everyone knows that to get that world-famous brisket, you’ve got to stand in line for a couple of hours, usually longer (but at least a newly installed canopy helps shield folks from the elements). Inside the small white-and-aqua building, you’ll be greeted by a man (often Aaron Franklin) with a knife and enough meat to please any carnivore. Of course the brisket’s great, but so are the tender pork spare ribs, juicy pulled pork, and sliced turkey moistened with a butter bath. It’s hard for the zippy potato salad and velvety pintos to get much attention, but save some room for them. (9/13)