In a dining scene fraught with locavores and hipster food devotees, this quiet, candle-lit dining room tucked behind the Wally Workman Gallery has been comfortingly untrendy since 1997. Its menu items may well come from a nearby farm (as in the salad of arugula, beets, and tiny moons of radish), but the menu doesn't trumpet it. A fritto misto of redfish cubes, crisp in cornmeal coats, was enjoyable, and a bowl of smoky udon noodles, mushrooms, and red snapper proved satisfying and balanced. The wine list is well chosen and supports chef-owner Brandon Fuller's eclectic menu. (Updated 3/13)