This gorgeous mod farmhouse, with its unpretentious service and local sourcing, exudes calm amid the clamor of busy South Lamar. Alas, that refreshingly simple aesthetic doesn't always translate to the food. The memory of unfortunately mealy mussels was dispatched with lovely red and golden beets mingling with arugula, blue cheese, and pear. Then it got complicated. Perfectly cooked scallops fought for attention atop a creamy pasta dotted with lamb chorizo and white anchovy. In the shortribs entree, luxe smoked-parsnip risotto was no match for sadly dry beef in a too-sweet glaze, a condition that also plagued the hearty lamb shanks, whose fat Israeli couscous and fresh lamb's quarter got lost amid a cranberry demi and an espresso onion jam. The cooking is admirably adventurous but also mystifyingly weighty. (Updated 3/13)