Aquiles Chaves, Mexico’s Anthony Bourdain, woos Houstonians with his contemporary Mexican seafood in an arrestingly colorful cottage setting (which is not enhanced by hard wooden furniture). We grazed our way through crunchy mini-tostadas (topped with yellowfin tuna, avocado, and frizzles of fried leeks), which outdid an entrée of red snapper pibil-style atop mashed sweet potatoes. Expect culinary surprises and upscale prices.