Fries with cheese, bacon, and ranch dressing—it’s a cholesterol festival and absolutely delicious. As for the burgers, you can have yours with cheese or without; there are no fancy-schmancy variations. Put that hunk of meat on a toasted bun, add onions, tomato, lettuce, chopped pickles, and mustard and you won’t be hungry until at least 9:30. If there’s room, grab a Gob, a bun-like vanilla or chocolate cake filled with custard. The spare cinder-block walls and pithy quotes (“Be nice or leave”) don’t seem to put anyone off; this place is consistently crowded.