Plan way ahead to book this small spot nestled (almost) under two freeways, where serious eaters sit practically cheek by jowl. We chose the four-course set menu, with a lagniappe of little biscuits and fragrant herb butter. Highlights?  Roasted yellowfin tuna topped with a rich egg-based sauce and sided by tendrils of leeks and little pickled onions; a beautiful Indian-accented carrot dish, with coconut, avocado, and cilantro. Guinea hen, the dark meat wrapped in wafer-thin summer squash (fine) and the white poached (less interesting). The only real disappointment? Caramelized chocolate cake with cane syrup and green tomato jam—really more of a hard disk, with very little chocolate flavor. (9/13)