Initially Belgian,La Frite seems to be trending French. Still on the menu are the mussels cooked half a dozen ways and the omnipresent frites. But France shows its influ- ence in the steak au poivre, in the inventive tarts (asparagus with parsnip, for example), and in the savory duck in a berry demi-glace. Expect to have your memories of Europe fondly reawakened. Oh, and choose the back room if you want to converse. (2/13)