This laid-back but spiffy hotel dining room offers a prime River Walk location, subdued but snazzy decor, and a kitchen that’s truly sensitive to seafood’s many subtleties. We were bowled over by the Crab “Louie”: chunks of blue crab served on leaves of endive with chopped radish, asparagus, and slivers of hot pepper. With a convincingly rich sauce, it was unalloyed bliss. Alas, a bisque-like crab and corn soup, though quite good, was not in the same class. Among main courses, Patagonian salmon with sweet potato hash was a new take on an old favorite fish. (9/13)