Clubby and handsome despite its strip center location, Costa Brava brings upscale dining to folks in Bellaire. And there’s a lot to like: a lively tapenade and tender little olives with crostini; well-conceived appetizers like potato leek soup with slivers of cheddar and minced bacon or a salad of frisée, asparagus, and serrano ham with a drizzle of lemon aioli. Our linguine with spinach and wild mushrooms with a topping of roasted chicken came off better than the seared snapper (which didn’t taste or look like snapper to us), with its overpowering piquillo pepper stuffed with shredded, tasteless crab.