A friend from Baton Rouge swears that the gumbo from this come-as-you-are, order-at-the-counter diner is the same spicy seafood stew she once had in her grandmother’s kitchen. After warming up with that, we drifted toward the tacos, our very favorite being the Spicy Baja, fried crawfish with cabbage, queso blanco, and jalapeños. (4/13)