Old hippies never die—maybe because they’re eating at this venerable Dallas institution. Popovers have always been a favorite with us, so we made a beeline for the whole-wheat one stuffed with pesto chicken salad studded with dried cherries, red onion, and smoked bacon. An added bonus was a bowl of über-flavorful chicken soup with tomatoes, carrots, and rice; we would have been happy with the broth alone. Lest you think the likes of brown rice and tofu still prevail, you can also get dishes like scallop risotto and truffle and porcini ravioli.