Candles in wall sconces and arias on the sound system help make this the most romantic dinner venue in town. By day, the quiet ambience and polished service create the ideal backdrop for a business lunch. Portions are more than ample, so we split an appetizer of tender fried calamari with marinara, a salad of baby greens tossed with walnuts and Gorgonzola, then two toothsome lamb chops nestled on a bed of risotto mixed with mushrooms and asparagus. For dessert, we passed up the always delectable tiramisu in favor of the Cioccolato di Amore, a square of chocolate-almond cake filled with chocolate mousse. (6/13)