With small windows keeping the summer sun at bay, uniformed cops and jumpsuited plumbers rub shoulders with serious aficionados of smoked meat. Founder and owner Leon O’Neal insists a major draw is his family-recipe sauce, which is exceptionally light, with a hint of citrus. But we’d gladly take the tender, flavorful beef, pork, chicken, and sausage on their own. Our potato stuffed with North Carolina–style chipped beef (not skimpy dry strips but hearty, bite-size chunks) was enough for two, and crunchy coleslaw and soulful turnip greens made us feel virtuous enough to split a slice of ethereal rum cake. (6/13)