Nonno Tony’s World Kitchen
citycuisinepricedrinksstars
Italian
Seafood
$$
Full Bar
0
addresshourscontact
Pier 21, off Harborside [map]
L & D 7 days.
409-621-5100

With this newest addition to the harbor-front scene, the Galveston Restaurant Group (Johnny and Joey Smecca and Danny Hart) continues to prove the viability of its expansion philosophy: rather than knocking out repeats of a successful concept, develop a new one (albeit incorporating a few favorite ideas). Named for the Smecca brothers’ father (nonno is Italian for “grandpa”), this light-washed bistro focuses on such hard-to-find specialties as a Nutella-and-banana panino, pizza made with ancient-grain crust, and arancini, surprisingly ethereal racquetball-size rice croquettes stuffed with meat sauce. For lighter appetites, the entrée salads, especially the seared tuna, make a satisfying lunch, likewise the fried artichoke hearts topped with lump crab. The mango panna cotta gets our vote for the best dessert on the Island. (6/13)

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