Despite the sporty ambience (badminton, anyone?) at Shepard Ross’s come-as-you-are eatery, there are no games played with the food. We scored big with a delightfully summery butter lettuce salad with a bounty of ripe avocado, grapefruit, and chile-spiced toasted pumpkin seeds. Grilled sirloin steak, conveniently sliced over chimichurri, was robust and a perfect portion, with its skinny fries and baby arugula salad. The new food truck out back caters to die-hard bocce and table tennis fans who absolutely must stay in the game. (Note: chef Jeff Axline has departed for Hotel ZaZa, so changes are probably to be expected). (9/13)