The large clock outside suggests that el tiempo was ripe for the Laurenzo clan to return to their roots on Navigation Boulevard, next door to the very spot where Mama Ninfa Laurenzo introduced tacos al carbon to the world and launched an empire. Though the place is spanking new, family photos, rustic beams, and chandeliers made us feel right at home as we sipped first-rate margaritas. Fajitas in some form are the way to go here, so we went for beef tenderloin—worth the extra bucks. A pork tenderloin India (translate: platter-size chalupa) was another winner, and you’ll not find better pork tamales with chili gravy anywhere in town. (6/13)