These folks have recently opened Brooklyn Athletic Club, but happily, quality at this big brother spot doesn’t seem to have suffered at all. We like the use of glass (“glass wall” is a surfing term) and the open kitchen. Our savvy and competent server got us off to a good start with the pumpkin ravioli, sparked with candied pumpkin seeds and spiced brown butter, and the lobster risotto, loaded with lobster, mushrooms, and sherry butter. The two top main dishes we tried both satisfied: root beer–braised short ribs with great whipped butternut squash and vanilla-touched carrots and grilled shrimp on egg fettuccine with garlicky spinach and tamarind sauce. (6/13)