Lüke has righted an occasionally tottering ship and now serves dinners with distinctive flair and a Texan tilt. A half dozen oysters of mixed provenance (East, West, and Gulf coasts) seemed priced way under market, and though the West Coast ones struck us as flabby and dull, the others definitely merited a return visit. The appetizer hit of the evening, though, was a pizza-like onion tart on a paper-thin crust, with bacon, cheese, and browned onion. And ah, yes, the main courses. Black drum, topped with intensely flavorful crab, and inspired New Orleans barbecued shrimp with cheese grits left us more than satisfied. Helpful servers seem to know the menu cold. (6/13)