The effort to find this back-street spot is well rewarded, because nothing is ordinary here. Hester and Jason Rodriguez’s pride is evident in their menu of hearty fare. We love the Swinney Switch salad (spring greens piled high with turkey, bacon, and black-bean-and-corn salsa) and the Panini on the Gruene (focaccia loaded with avocado and smoked bacon). If you can resist a slice of one of the cakes or pies, you’ve got serious willpower. (7/13)