A high-end (for Pearland) steakhouse in the evenings, Killen’s gets down and dirty for weekend lunch. Butcher paper covers the tables, and Ronnie Killen and his gang serve up plates of meat on plastic trays to a steady line of neighborhood folk and interlopers from Houston. Having sampled it all, we found one of our orders of beef ribs overly fatty, the other perfect—crusty outside and meltingly tender within. No argument about the juicy sausage, meaty pork ribs, or brisket. Sides, a mustardy potato salad and pinto beans, are as good as they need to be. (7/13)