Ditch the diet at Washington Row’s newest resident—its better-than-home cooking comes in irresistibly generous portions. Our super starters (shrimp and grits croquettes, short-rib meat on pretzel bread topped with a fried egg) were plenty satisfying, but we plowed on with plump fried oysters and a perfectly grilled bone-in ribeye. The redo of Cova’s old spot is a pleasant mix of high tables and low, with an open feel and subdued lighting. Despite a few service glitches, the attentiveness of owner Chuck Pritchett predicts success for this spin-off (the original fronts Hollister in Spring Branch). (7/13)