We’ve got a friend who won’t eat food you have to carry to your table on a tray. Too bad, because this joint offers sublime barbecue and the kind of ranch-house-great-room atmosphere that people appreciate when hunting honest Texas cuisine. We loaded up our platters with ribs, sausage, turkey, beans, corn on the cob, baked potatoes, and coleslaw, then finished it all off with piping-hot cherry cobbler. (7/13)