This tiny town, just a few miles west of Athens, now has an upscale eatery, complete with a varied menu and a pending liquor license. We started with sweet potato quinoa and a side of hummus, then enjoyed a tasty sea bass filet served with a peppery salsa verde. A dining companion just returning from college three states over felt finally at home after devouring a tender chicken-fried steak. We enjoyed the country-style live music, juxtaposed against the pristine, almost churchlike atmosphere, though we found our server a bit inattentive. Full bar is pending. (7/13)