Contemporary zinc tabletops and molded white plastic chairs, lit by floor-to-ceiling windows and hanging globes, had us anticipating modern takes on French standards, but the classics won our hearts instead, like the buttery, brandy-infused chicken-liver pâté and branzino meunière, the whole fish splayed in deboned splendor with broccoli florets lining its back. We were pleasantly surprised with black risotto made from dark wild rice rather than the squid ink–arborio version, but boeuf bourguignonne lacked the herb-laced sauce we were counting on. Extra credit for attentive service and Olivier Ciesielski’s table-side visits. (6/12)