For being one of the most anticipated Texas restaurant openings this year, Qui has its work cut out for it. Everyone will expect the stars and moon, and those are forthcoming a good bit of the time in the spare, “modern farmhouse” venue. Ode to Michel Bras—an ensemble of thin-cut vegetables in a pale-green garlic dashi—was an unqualified hit, as was the spectacular Salmon Butter, a spreadable poached filet with caviar-style accompaniments. Rabbit 7 Ways put the kitchen through its paces with variable results—a punchy pâté with smoked pickled mustard seeds alongside and a well-cooked but rather bland loin marking the two ends of the spectrum. In the “you just never know” approach that is Top Chef winner Paul Qui’s signature, dessert was a beguiling semi-sweet, creamy-crunchy sandwich of Cabot cheddar ice cream and waffle-batter cookies. (8/13)