A vegetarian restaurant in a chest-thumping bastion of beef on the border? You’d assume a lifespan of a mayfly—and you’d be spectacularly wrong. The owners of this crossroads effort have a 25-year history with four popular Sister City locations. Just be advised that while the menu includes enchiladas, milanesa, and so on, these traditional dishes are offered in (wheat) gluten, soy, or limited-dairy versions. We tucked into the milanesa, its crisp corn exterior encasing a gluten patty; shredded soy received the darkly sweet mole sauce nicely. (8/13)