Hit restaurant number five (and counting) for Andrew Weissman again shows the astonishingly high standards he sets for all of his kitchens. The menu emphasizes France, and the atmosphere is bistro-like, meaning jolly and noisy (the location is the former Liberty Bar, still leaning after all these years). Appetizers run from the upscale (torchon au foie gras, with sour cherries and a tiny salad of bitter greens) to the robust (rabbit rillettes served with thin toast slices). Main courses do the same; you can choose moules frites or an elegant lemony preparation of skate wing with capers. Weissman has clearly put his own stamp on these classic recipes, and the servers seem always at hand but never intrusive. (8/13)