The new location is not quite as atmospheric as the former backwoods spot, but what Currents has lost in Walden-esque appeal, it has more than made up for in charm and doubled seating capacity. We could not resist starting out with a warm puff pastry gently enveloping sautéed spinach, purple onion, and goat cheese. Feeling flighty, we reveled in the nearly perfect boneless breast of duck, which was French cut, lightly seared, and served in a delectable green peppercorn–cognac sauce. (8/13)